Off Like a Herd of Turtles
September 12, 2011 by Mandy
Mileage to date: 237.6; Days cycling: 6; Rest days to date: 2. I’m feeling that shell on my back growing daily. Tom has a great outlook on our pace however. He said, “After all honey, we have completed 10% of the journey already!”
And so we have, amazingly enough.
We got to Minneapolis on the evening of the 1st of September in high heat and humidity and immediately wilted. Thank goodness for Jake’s central air! After the mandatory whiskey overload of the first night, we unpacked and reassembled the bikes. In the next couple of days we toodled around Minneapolis running errands, going on a celebratory fun ride to the ice cream store and generally doing the family visit thing. Sunday we caught the Wayne and Jone Classon Express to Itasca where we were treated to a fabulous dinner at the 30s era Lodge by these wonderful friends. They helped us set up camp for the night before it got dark. Soon it would be on the road for us!
All dressed up and somewhere to go!
Itasca State Park has beautiful bike paths and a fabulous interpretive center where you can learn everything you ever wanted to know about the Mississippi River and surrounding area. The official Headwaters is visited by more than half a million people a year, and this Labor Day Sunday was no exception. It was crowded with Japanese students, Midwesterners showing the relatives around and European tourists wondering just why France sold the fledgling U.S. this vast territory so cheaply.
We, in our bike togs, got no more than a few cursory looks while imposing on strangers to take our photo standing in the Father of Waters. I filled a little vial from the stream, intent on lugging it down to the Gulf where half of it will join the river again. I will refill the container with water from the Gulf and lug that home, TSA willing. Whether that water is very salty or not remains to be seen, as Old Muddy extends its influence far out to sea.
Posing for strangers
After all the obligatory rituals at the headwaters we were off and rolling through the beautiful Minnesota countryside. The area is full of small family-owned resorts, clustered around every lake and on the banks of the river. Deer are everywhere, including flat on the road. This first “shake down” day was good, and we made the 36 miles to Bemidji in time to get into a hotel with a hot tub, which is a blessed relief after a long day in the saddle. We have planned to camp primarily, but the first day is a special situation, don’tcha think? The next day, through town, past the giant Paul Bunyan and Babe at the visitor’s center, saw us take our first detour. One six mile section of the route was torn up and sandy, so we diverted to US Hwy. 2 instead. Getting the gollywobbles on a sandy road while carrying full gear is no way to travel!
We caught lunch at Cadillac’s Northstar Grille just before the junction with the highway, outside of Cass Lake. A nicer couple of people than Connie and Larry you couldn’t find–along with the best fish sandwich I’ve ever had. We only put in 29 miles that day, but camped in a lovely and all but deserted place on the lake. Post Labor Day, the campgrounds are empty, which is more than a little eerie! In the first 2 days we crossed the river eight times, and memorialized every one of those crossings with a photo.
Second crossing of the Mississippi
All along this route we are close to the Mississippi, though often the woods and farm fields shield it from view. The bridges are small, the river narrow and fast flowing, very clear here in the upper reaches. So different from the river I knew as a child in LaCrosse Wisconsin. The third night we camped at the Lake Winibigoshish Dam campground, and the first thing we did was to don bathing suits and go plunge into the water. Brrr!! Still cold at this far northern reach, and so refreshing after 37 miles in 80 degree heat!
On Thursday we passed many houses with huge gardens of corn, squash, pumpkins, beans and tomatoes. Finally, I couldn’t stand it any more. I was determined to stop at the next place and purchase fresh corn and tomatoes if it killed me. And it nearly did–I go wheeling into the very sandy driveway, forget I’m clipped into my pedals and take a header off the bike. One bloody elbow and red face later, I walked away with six ears of corn and almost a dozen tomatoes. I had to stop the gentleman from giving me more–I had no more room in the panniers! Friday we took a down day in Grand Rapids in order to get work done on the bikes (thank you Dave at Itasca Bike and Ski!), do laundry, eat corn til it came out our ears and feast on tomatoes. Since the Packers were playing we had to stay in a hotel–watch the game, don’tcha know!
Coming out of Grand Rapids I was arrested by a life-sized pink baby elephant standing in the yard of a rundown little bungalow. Aunt Sally, I was thinking of you and got a picture! What is it with the Heartland and giant replicas of folk heroes or wildlife? Not too much further on we came across the Big Fish Supper Club, where there is a huge Walleye Pike by the side of the road that serves as a cabin. You enter through the gaping mouth full of long sharp teeth! Shades of the biblical Jonah!
My, what long sharp teeth you have!
Famous Minnesotans
I have been very impressed with the Minnesota roads. Studded tires are banned here, and it shows in the condition of the road surface. How they do this with all the ice and snow they get is beyond me, but apparently having no mountains helps the situation! All the roads we have traveled are smooth, have wide shoulders and almost no litter alongside them. The little communities scattered along the way are very proud of themselves, and individuals seem to really care about the state of their state. Ambling along as we are, we have had no close encounters or even an irritated honk in all 237 miles. Every driver has given us wide berth and friendly smiles, even on the major highways. As an Alaskan, I am truly grateful.
It may be a bit more problematic to update this blog than I anticipated, when I decided to go without smart phone or portable computer. The towns are further between than I thought (we’re going slower) and it takes me much longer to post than I thought it would too. Perhaps with more practice, both cycling and posting, the time I have to spend doing it will improve. Til next time then, see ya down the road!
Hey Tom and Mandy, great to get the text from you. This is my official fist blog,yes Virgin blogger; so help me along the way. Sounds like you are having a great time despite the road rash, bet you won’t do that again. By the way the two of you look sexy in your riding gear. I think the real reason the drivers are giving you space, cuz they are not quite sure what is rolling down the road and need to take a longer look! Hopefully the local news stations will pick you up for a story. Happy travels, I will try to connect via the phone soon. RR
I’m glad you found time to do this update. Sounds like you’re both having a great time. What bike troubles did you have? Nothing serious, I hope. I look forward to more details when you get back, if not sooner! Miss you!!